Residential laundry · Sydney-wide
Front loaders and top loaders. Most common faults — won't drain, won't spin, leaks, error codes — are repairable. Call us with the make, model and symptom and we'll talk you through what it likely is.
Common faults we fix
If your symptoms aren't on this list, call us anyway — these are the common ones, not the only ones.
Won't drain
Water sitting in the drum at the end of the cycle. Usually a blocked pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or a failed drain pump.
Won't spin
Cycle finishes but clothes are soaking. Often an unbalanced load, a worn motor coupling or brushes, or a stretched belt.
Leaking water
Water on the floor — could be the door seal, an inlet hose, the drain hose, the sump, or the tub itself. We diagnose where it's coming from before quoting.
Error codes
F-, E- or LED codes vary by brand. Note the code down — it usually narrows the fault to a sensor, pump, heater or control board.
Door won't open
Door locked at the end of a cycle, or mid-cycle. Often a stuck door interlock, sometimes water still trapped in the machine.
Loud, banging or vibrating
Excessive movement during spin. Worn drum bearings, broken suspension, or a transit bolt left in from delivery.
Won't start
No power, no response, or trips the circuit. Could be the door switch, mains filter, or control board.
Smells bad
Mouldy or musty smell from the drum or door seal. Usually a service wash, seal clean, and a check for blocked pump filter sorts it.
Front loader or top loader?
Knowing what kind of machine you have helps us give you a faster phone diagnosis and bring the right parts on the first visit.
Front loaders
The drum spins on bearings — that's where the wear is.
Top loaders
Mechanical agitation — different parts go.
Before you call
A bit of information up front means we can give you a more accurate diagnosis and price range over the phone, and bring the right parts on the first visit.
Make and model — usually on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back.
Front loader or top loader.
What's happening — won't drain, won't spin, leaking, error code, smell, noise.
If there's an error code, write it down exactly (e.g. F08, E20, LE).
For leaks: roughly where the water's coming from — front, under, or behind.
If the drum is full of water, try the emergency drain or pump filter first if you can.
Repair vs replace
Not every washer is worth repairing. Drum bearing replacements on older budget machines, or boards on out-of-warranty premium units, can cost more than the machine is worth. We'll be honest about that on the phone before you book.
Usually worth it
Door seals, pumps, hoses, sensors, interlocks
Discrete parts, accessible, well-supported by spares — these jobs almost always make sense.
Worth a think
Drum bearings, main board, motor on older machines
Bigger jobs. We'll quote them honestly and lay out what the machine is likely worth after the repair.
Often not
Parts no longer available, or repair cost > machine value
Some older models have no spares left. We'll tell you, and we won't charge you to come out and confirm it if we know on the phone.
Not sure if we cover your suburb? Give us a call — we cover more areas than the list below and we'll tell you straight up if we can help.
How a repair goes
Call or message
Tell us the make, model and what's happening. We'll give you a likely diagnosis and a price range on the phone.
We come out
We book a time and turn up with the common parts for that fault.
Final price before we start
We confirm the diagnosis on-site, give you the final price, and only proceed once you've agreed.
Tell us what's happening and we'll talk you through whether it sounds repairable, what it usually costs, and when we could get to you.
Hours
Direct
